The History of the vest in Fashion: From Menswear to a Contemporary Icon
Long associated with traditional menswear, the vest has evolved over the centuries, constantly reinventing itself. At different times a ceremonial garment, part of the three-piece suit or a piece borrowed from the masculine wardrobe, it has now become a wardrobe staple in its own right for both women and men.
Worn on its own, under a jacket or with matching pants, the vest perfectly illustrates fashion’s ability to reinterpret classic pieces without losing their timeless appeal.
The Origins of the Vest in the 17th Century
The vest as we know it today has part of its origins in European menswear of the second half of the 17th century.
Worn beneath a coat or long jacket, it formed part of a highly codified style of dress. Early versions could be long, richly embroidered and made from luxurious fabrics.
More than simply a garment designed for warmth, the vest quickly became a way to express taste, social status and elegance.
Over the decades, its cut gradually became shorter and simpler.
The Vest Becomes an Essential Part of the Men’s Suit
In the 18th and 19th centuries, the vest became an essential part of men’s wardrobes.
Together with the jacket and trousers, it gradually formed the three-piece suit. Colours and fabrics evolved over time: silk, velvet, wool, embroidery and patterns could add a personal touch to an otherwise increasingly understated silhouette.
During the 19th century, the vest became shorter, moving closer to the shape we know today.
However, it retained an essential role: structuring the silhouette and adding an elegant finishing touch.
When the Vest Entered the Women’s Wardrobe
Like many pieces now considered essentials of women’s fashion, the vest gradually found its place in women’s wardrobes.
During the 19th century, some women’s garments inspired by equestrian dress and men’s tailoring already began to incorporate elements resembling the vest.
This evolution was part of a broader transformation of women’s fashion: jackets became more structured, tailored suits developed, and women gradually adopted pieces that had previously been associated with menswear.
The vest then became a new way to play with proportions, fabrics and the contrast between masculine and feminine codes.
The 1920s: A More Liberated Silhouette
The beginning of the 20th century profoundly changed the way women dressed.
During the 1920s, silhouettes became straighter and clothing less restrictive. Women’s fashion increasingly drew inspiration from menswear, with trousers, shirts, jackets and vests appearing in bolder looks.
Worn with trousers or incorporated into a matching set, the vest became part of this new aesthetic.
This dialogue between masculine tailoring and the feminine silhouette would go on to become a recurring theme in fashion.
From the Three-Piece Suit to the Vest Worn on Its Own
For a long time, the vest was mainly considered an intermediate part of the suit, designed to be worn underneath a jacket.
Contemporary fashion has given it a new sense of freedom.
Today, the sleeveless vest can be worn on its own as a top, over a shirt or under a blazer. Paired with high-waisted trousers or matching shorts, it can also create an elegant and modern set.
It is precisely this versatility that explains its recurring presence in contemporary collections.
How to Wear a Vest Today
The vest now adapts easily to many occasions.
For an elegant look, it can be worn with matching trousers and a blazer to reinterpret the classic three-piece suit.
Worn on its own with high-waisted trousers, it creates a more minimalist and contemporary silhouette.
With jeans, it offers a contrast between tailoring and a more relaxed feel.
It can also be paired with a skirt or shorts for a more feminine interpretation of traditional tailoring.
The Capucine Vest by La Jaquette
At La Jaquette, we wanted to reinterpret this historic piece through our Capucine vest.
Sleeveless and designed to be worn both on its own and layered, it draws on the codes of tailoring while offering a contemporary silhouette.
Crafted in our Parisian atelier in limited editions, it is available in a range of carefully selected fabrics, including materials sourced from the stocks of leading French couture houses.
It can be worn on its own or paired with a blazer, trousers or shorts crafted in the same fabric to create a coordinated set.