History of coats
The origin of the coats:
The single and double breasted cuts were considered clothing for workers and peasants in the Spanish provinces of the eighteenth century. The coat attracted the attention of other European countries and evolved differently in each country.
Late 19th century:
The time when women began to replicate men's fashion. The custom-made coat was in fashion. Details were everything, often finely hand-sewn. High quality outerwear had three silhouette options: slim fit, trapezoidal and straight. The waist was very small and almost separated the upper and lower halves of the body.
Late 1910s/1920s
The shapeless style of the era is exemplified by the much looser cut of the coat in the late 1910s, in contrast to the previous "S" corsetry. In the Roaring Twenties, styles of the era included flapper coats and jackets. Details of real fur collars and cuffs and materials such as velvet coats of the glamorous jazz era.
The 1930s
Styles changed dramatically in each decade. The 1930s saw the return of the cinched waist, creating an hourglass shape, with the help of shoulder pads, which only became more defined in the 1940s. The femme fatale wore long lines, which followed the natural silhouette, with the intention of emphasizing that silhouette. Coats were lighter so as not to detract from the simplicity of the carefully created lines in the dresses.
The 1940s
After World War II and fabric shortages, coats lost some of the luxury look of the Jazz Age and developed a military look. There were minimal accents such as pleats, to conserve fabric. Dior reintroduced curves with tighter waists and fuller skirts, as opposed to the slim wartime look.
The 1950s
The post-war era called for the return of glamour and the re-emergence of high fashion with exaggerated triangular silhouettes and dramatic sleeves, especially in the swing coat. This style of coat was practical with the baby boom as it also doubled as maternity wear. Conversely, a tight bodice and embellished full skirt were also popular and emphasized the desired hourglass shape. The ever-slimmer waist was also emphasized with slimmer lines. Coats were often made of tweed or wool.
The 1960s/1970s
Young individualists have changed the fashion scene in the future. This can be seen through the experimental coat trends. The 1960s featured tailored coats with fur trim and dramatic details. While a slim fit was sought after, clean lines, trapeze cuts and flared coats challenged the more tailored styles. One look emerged that introduced sleek leather trench coats. The bohemian style developed further with leather coats, wrap coats, patterns and different colors in the 1970s.
The 1980s
This decade had no shortage of bold, modern looks with coats! From bright colors and prints to rhinestones and shoulder pads, there was plenty of diversity in style. The coats made a statement with its dramatic oversized cuts, especially in the power suit. Oversized, masculine coats were a key element of the women's bold, monochromatic looks that exuded confidence and boldness.
The 90's
Sophisticated, oversized styles were popular, continuing the masculine trend. Styles became more relaxed and effortless, yet expressive. Coats played a role in the revival of different styles throughout the decade. Coats varied in all aspects. From suede, leather and fur to quilted coats, wool blazers and sheepskin coats. The pieces were sometimes bold, but also, in keeping with the minimal style, were worn in monochromatic looks.
Currently
There are many options with coats today. While there are many coat trends, classic shapes and silhouettes are always present. This season in particular, timeless coats have been revisited with style. For example, cut out details, bright colors, artistic belts and sheepskin and vinyl materials. There is a balance of minimalist styles and bold trends today. As well as reinterpretations of past trends, with a contemporary and modern vibe maintained.
This article was written by Tess RUSSELL.
References:
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLztAHXmlMZFQzxmXfTAFxgbolYcO4uTDD http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/h/history-of-fashion-1900-1970/ https://www.lofficielmonaco.com/fashion/a-brief-history-of-coats-everything-you-need-to-know http://recollections.biz/blog/100-years-of-winter-coats/
https://www.glamour.com/story/how-winter-coats-have-changed-from-the-1920s-to-now https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/what-to-wear/news/g32335/best-fall-winter-coats/